![]() I will use it myself in the future no doubt BUT it doesn't belong on the main 3rd gen page. Seat belt: 30 ft-lbs (all mounting points)ĭoc this is a really great thread with very useful info. Steering rack horizontal mounting bolt: 141 ft-lbs Steering rack vertical center mounting bolt: 123 ft-lbs Ring gear bolts: 71 ft-lbs (with e-locker), 92 ft-lbs (w/o e-locker)Ĭarrier bearing caps: 83 ft-lbs (w/o e-locker)Į-locker acutuator to 3rd member: 20 ft-lbsĭifferential drain & fill plugs: 36 ft-lbs (with e-locker), 54 ft-lbs (w/o e-locker) Shackle bolts (both): 67 ft-lbs (may vary with aftermarket equip) Hub body to axle hub (manual hubs): 23 ft-lbs Shock absorber upper mount (3 bolts): 47 ft-lbs (may vary with aftermarket equip)ĭifferential front mount to frame: 101 ft-lbsĭifferential rear mount to frame: 64 ft-lbsįree wheel hub inner lock nut (manual hubs): 203 ft-lbsĪxle shaft inner hub safety bolt (manual hubs): 13 ft-lbs Upper ball joint to upper control arm: 80 ft-lbs Lower ball joint to lower control arm: 112 ft-lbs Lower control arm to swaybar end link: 51 ft-lbs Lower control arm to shock absorber: 101 ft-lbs (may vary with aftermarket equip) Lower control arm to frame (alignment cams): 96 ft-lbs Outer tie-rod to lower ball joint: 67 ft-lbs Steering knuckle to lower ball joint: 59 ft-lbs ~USE LOCTITE~ Transmission drain and fill plugs(MANUAL TRANSMISSION): 27 ft-lbsĬompanion flange nut to transfer output shaft: 87 ft-lbsĭriveshaft center support bushing to frame: 27 ft-lbsĭriveshaft center support bearing: 134 ft-lbs to set, then loosen, then 51 ft-lbs Shift lever retainer: 29 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 13 ft-lbs (5VZ) ![]() Transmission housing to transfer case: 17 ft-lbs Transmission housing to transfer adapter: 27 ft-lbs Transmission mount to transmission housing: 48 ft-lbs Transmission mount to crossmember: 14 ft-lbs ![]() Transmission crossmember to frame: 48 ft-lbs Transmission bellhousing to engine: 53 ft-lbs Intake manifold: 22 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 13 ft-lbs (5VZ)Īir Intake Chamber: 15 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 13 ft-lbs (5VZ)Ĭrankshaft pulley bolt: 193 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 217 ft-lbs (5VZ)įlywheel to crankshaft bolts: 65 ft-lbs (2RZ), 19 ft-lbs + additional 90° (3RZ), 63 ft-lbs (5VZ) ~USE LOCTITE~įlexplate to crankshaft bolts: 54 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 61 ft-lbs (5VZ) Main bearing caps: 29 ft-lbs + additional 90°(2RZ/3RZ), 45 ft-lbs + additional 90° (5VZ)Įxhaust manifold: 36 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 30 ft-lbs (5VZ) Head bolts: 25 ft-lbs + additional 90° + another 90°, recessed 13 ft-lbs (5VZ) Head bolts: 29 ft-lbs + additional 90° + another 90° (2RZ/3RZ) Spark plug: 14 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 13 ft-lbs (5VZ)Įngine mount to block: 38 ft-lbs (2RZ/3RZ), 32 ft-lbs (5VZ) Throttle body mounting nuts/studs: 13 ft-lbs If there's something you want to correct, PM me and I'll be sure to add it/change it as necessary. I know these are for a Tacoma, but the majority Of them will apply to our 4Runners, with the exception of the leaf spring and u-bolts. It has the specs for the 2/3RZ, and the 5VZ. Torque Specs and Service Information Revisited. Uh, I suggested he replace the whole damn truck.See this thread for a more in depth version of torque specs. After you've removed the rusty metal, and have good solid metal you can move forward. You might need to weld in more than you think if the metal is bad. I would check the frame all the way up to the first cross member to see how it looks. Then take a grinder to the frame, and start removing material. If it were me I would buy a new control arm mount, and some 1/8" cold rolled steel. You only need 1/8" steel to weld in place of the rusted metal. Instead of paying $125 for that kit I would go buy the metal locally, buy a grinder, buy some beer, and still save money over that kit. Not to mention the fact that the control arm mount isn't attached anymore. If all you plan on doing is welding good metal over a rusted out frame you haven't fixed anything. You need to get that frame down to good metal to really slow the rust process. None of you are concerned about leaving that rusty ass metal on the vehicle? Isn't the main reason for doing rust repair is to GET RID OF THE RUST. ![]()
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